Permanent Waving
Permanent waving is a process used to chemically restructure natural hair into a different wave pattern.
Chemical Relaxing
Chemical hair relaxing chemically rearranges the basic structure of overly curly hair into a straighter hair form.
Curl Reformation
A curl reformation, also known as a soft-curl perm, Jheri® curl, or simply a curl, is a process used to restructure very curly hair into a larger curl pattern.
The processing time for chemical texturizing services depends more on hair __________ than on any other factor.
porosity
While hair porosity is important in determining the processing time, hair ________ also plays a part in the decision.
texture
The greater the degree of elasticity, the longer the wave will remain in the hair because less relaxation of the hair occurs; thus the elasticity of the hair determines its ability to hold a _______.
curl
Hair density
Hair density helps determine the number of blockings or subsections that will be best for the service that is performed.
In permanent waving and curl reformation processes, hair ________ may determine the wrapping technique to use.
length
Hair _______ pattern must be considered when selecting the wrapping pattern and rod placement for permanent waves or curl reformations and the direction of combing and smoothing when using chemical relaxers.
growth
Chemical texture services create permanent changes in the structure and ____________ of the hair.
appearance
Perm Rods
In permanent waving, the size, shape, and type of curl are determined by the size, shape, and type of perm rod and the method used to wrap the hair.
Perm Rod Diameter
The diameter of the rod controls the size of the curl.
Perm Rod Lengths
Rods are available lengths that typically measure from 1 3/4 inches to 3 ½ inches.
Concave Rods
Concave rods are the most commonly used perm rod.This shape produces a tighter curl in the center and a larger curl on the sides of the hair parting resulting in a more natural wave.
Straight Rods
This type of rod creates a consistently sized wave from one side of the hair parting to the other.
Bender Rods
Bender rods are made of stiff wires covered by soft foam that permits bending into a variety of shapes.
Circle or Loop Rods
The circle tool or loop rod is a plastic-coated tool that also measures about 12 inch with a uniform diameter along the length of the rod.
End Papers or End Wraps
End papers are absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping and winding the hair on perm rods.
The bookend wrap
uses one paper folded in half over the ends of the hair.
The single flat or single end wrap uses
one paper placed over the top of the hair parting being wrapped
The double flat or double-end wrap uses
uses two end papers, one placed under and one over the parting of hair being wrapped.
Sectioning
Perm wraps begin with sectioning the hair into panels. Each panel is further divided into subsections called base sections. The size, shape, and direction of these panels will vary depending on the wrapping pattern and the type of tool being used
Base Control
Base control refers to the position of the perm rod or tool in relation to its base section and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.
On-Base Placement
In on-base placement, the hair is projected about 45 degrees beyond perpendicular (90 degrees) to its base section and the rod is placed on the base section.
Half Off-Base Placement
Half off-base placement results from wrapping the hair at an angle of 90 degrees to its base section.
Off-Base Placement
Off-base placement is achieved by wrapping the hair at a 45-degree angle below perpendicular to its base section.
Base Direction
Base direction refers to the directional pattern in which the hair is wrapped.
The two basic methods used to wrap the hair around the perm rod are the croquignole and _________ techniques.
spiral
Croquignole
When using the croquignole rodding technique, the hair is wound from the hair ends toward the scalp.
Spiral
With the spiral technique, the rod or perm rod is positioned vertically as the hair parting is “rocked” or spiraled along the length of the rod.
Water versus Lotion Wrapping
A water wrap is the action of wrapping the hair around rods when it is moist with water; a lotion wrap is the application of permanent wave solution to one working panel or section of hair just before wrapping the hair on rods to pre-soften resistant hair.
There are four common wrapping patterns that are used in permanent waving:
basic wrap, curvature perm wrap, bricklay perm wrap, and piggyback perm wrap.
Alkaline Perms (Cold Waves)
The main active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline perms is ammonium thioglycolate (ATG).
True Acid Waves
These perms have a pH range between 4.5 and 7.0 and use glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG) as the primary reducing agent
Acid-Balanced Waves
Most of today’s acid waves have a pH between 7.8 and 8.2, which puts them into the category of acid-balanced waves.
Exothermic Waves
Like acid-balanced perms, all exothermic waves have three components: permanent waving solution, activator, and neutralizer.
Ammonia-Free Waves
Ammonia-free waves use alkanolamines to replace ammonia and are gaining in popularity because of their low odor.
Thio-Free Waves
Thio-free waves use cysteamine or mercaptamine as the primary reducing agent.
Low-pH Waves
Sulfates, sulfites, and bisulfites offer an alternative to ATG but are weak and do not produce a firm curl.
Strengths of Waving Solutions
Most manufacturers market three or more strengths of permanent waving products: mild for damaged, porous, or tinted hair; normal for normal hair with good porosity; and resistant for resistant hair with less porosity.
Pre-Wraps
A pre-wrap is simply a leave-in conditioner that helps equalize the porosity of the hair to ensure even penetration of the waving lotion and to protect the hair from unnecessary damage.
Perm Selection
For a successful chemical waving service, it is essential to select the proper waving product for the client’s hair type and desired result
The strength of any permanent wave is based on the concentration of its _________ agent.
reducing
Underprocessing
This is when hair has not been sufficiently softened to permit the breaking and rearrangement of the disulfide bonds.
Overprocessing
The hair can also appear to be too weak to hold a curl.
Test Curls
Test curls help determine how the client’s hair will react to the permanent waving process.
Permanent waving neutralizers are actually oxidizers that stop the action of permanent wave solutions and rebuild the __________ bonds broken during processing.
disulfide
Neutralizer ApplicationThe neutralizer should be applied to the top and bottom of each rod to assure saturation and even distribution of the product.
The neutralizer should be applied to the top and bottom of each rod to assure saturation and even distribution of the product.
Rinsing the Neutralizer
Follow manufacturer’s directions to determine how to rinse the neutralizer.
Post-Permanent Wave Care
Always follow the manufacturer’s directions and be sure to educate your clients about the most appropriate shampoos and conditioners to use after a perm service.
Dry, Damaged Hair
Dry, brittle, damaged, or overporous hair should be given reconditioning treatments before a permanent wave service
Tinted or Lightened Hair
Hair that has been tinted or lightened should be shampooed with an extra-mild shampoo before waving.
Hair Tinted with Metallic Dye
Hair tinted with a metallic dye must first be treated with a dye remover to avoid hair discoloration or breakage.
Curl Reduction
Sometimes a client is not pleased after a permanent wave because the hair seems too curly.
Air-Conditioning and Heating Units
Air-conditioning will usually slow the action of permanent waving solutions and additional processing time may be required. Conversely, sitting too close to a heating vent or hood hair dryer can speed up the processing time.
The two most common types of relaxers are thio and _________ relaxers.
hydroxide
Hydroxide Relaxers
Hydroxide relaxers are ionic compounds formed by a metal combined with oxygen and hydrogen.
Sodium Hydroxide Relaxers
Sodium hydroxide content varies from 5 percent to 10 percent, with a pH range of 10 to over 13.5.
Potassium and Lithium Hydroxide Relaxers
Although these two relaxers are not technically lye products, their chemistry is identical and there is little difference in their performance.
Guanidine Hydroxide Relaxers
These relaxers contain two products, a relaxer cream and an activator, that must be mixed immediately prior to use and are recommended for sensitive scalps.
Calcium Hydroxide Relaxers
Calcium hydroxide relaxers require the addition of an activator.
“Base” versus “No-Base” Relaxers
Base relaxers require the application of a base cream to the entire scalp prior to relaxer application. No-base relaxers contain a base cream that is designed to melt at body temperature and do not require the application of a separate protective base.
The strength of the relaxer reflects the concentration of __________ in its formulation
hydroxide
Preliminary strand tests for chemical relaxer applications include the porosity test for determining the degree of porosity, elasticity test for determining the degree of elasticity, and relaxer test for determining the hair’s reaction to the chemical and __________ time.
processing
The process used to chemically restructure straight hair into a wave or curl pattern is
permanent waving
The process used to chemically restructure curly hair into a larger curl pattern is called a
reformation curl
The process used to rearrange overcurly hair into a straightened hair form is known as
hair relaxing
The two layers of the hair most affected by chemical texture services are the
cortex and cuticle
___________ and _____________actions cause the bonds within the cortex to be rearranged and
Physical and chemical
In permanent waving, the main active ingredient is also known as a(n)
reducing agent
Hydroxide relaxing products are neutralized through the process of
shampooing and rinsing
A chemical service should not be given if the hair shows signs of
overporosity and breakage
Hair density is analyzed to determine the number of subsections, the size of rods, and the
amount of product to use
Concave, straight, bender, and loop refer to types of
perm rods
The hair is projected about 45 degrees beyond perpendicular to its base section in a(n)
on-base rod placement
Two basic methods used to wrap the hair around the perm rod are the
croquignole and spiral
The application of waving solution to a section of hair just prior to rodding is called a(n)
lotion wrap
Alkaline perms are generally used on hair that is considered to be
resistant
True acid waves have a pH range of
4.5 to 7.0
Wave processing has reached its peak when it forms a firm
letter S shape
Frizziness is an indication of
overprocessing
To determine how the client’s hair will react to the permanent waving process, a ___________ should be performed.
test curl
Permanently waved hair should be shampooed with
acid-balanced shampoos